As the saying goes, everything old is new again. Ultra-skinny jeans from the 1950s made a resurgence in the 1980s, low-waisted pants from the 2000s are back in style today and now, so are the bell bottoms that captivated the 1970s. Bell bottoms are a style of pants that are typically fitted at the waist and hips, with a straight or wide leg fit to the knee. At the knee, the pants flare out, creating a wide leg opening that looks similar to a bell, thus naming the fit “bell bottoms.” In addition to their exaggerated flare shape, bell bottoms are typically longer than regular trousers, often touching the floor, and the hem circumference can sometimes be as large as 26”. The pants, which reigned in fashion during the 1960s and 1970s, also symbolized the rejection of the mainstream, due to their importance in the counterculture movement, second wave feminism, and disco culture, and have made a revival today among a progressive Generation Z who are inspired by the same movements from decades past.
Navy veteran and expert Tim Kirkpatrick explores the origin of bell bottoms, and notes that the style was first introduced in 1817 as a part of the Navy uniform. The image to the right, courtesy of Southern Methodist University, depicts two 19th century navy officers in their uniform. Instead of a classic straight leg fit, the Navy opted for a more flared look because they were easy for sailors to roll up over the knee for cleaning the deck and they could protect the material. Also, the bell shape made the pants easy to remove over shoes if sailors fell overboard, and the wool material allowed the pants to double as a floatation device. In 1901, the Navy changed the fabric of the uniform to denim, thus inventing the iconic bell bottom jeans. Eventually, the Navy changed their uniform pants to a straight fit at the end of the century. It's hard to imagine that the pants used for swabbing the deck could be considered a revolutionary fashion style, but nevertheless, bell bottoms persevered, and ultimately had a lasting impact on the fashion industry.
The 1960s and 1970s experienced the impacts of groups pushing the norms of fashion through Youthquake, a cultural shift where youthful clientele were first beginning to have more influence in the fashion industry, as well as the rise of the hippies, who rejected
mainstream ideas altogether. These two movements were a result of a period of impactful social change surrounding second wave feminism, the civil rights movement, and the beginning of the environmental movement. Counterculture, also known as the Hippie Movement, was an anti-establishment political movement that began in the late 1960s and led younger generations in the western world to adopt alternative lifestyles based on principles of creative expression, self sufficiency, and social activism. Hippies, individuals who advocated for nonviolent ethics, believed that Capitalism turned people into consumers who felt the need to continually buy new material goods, including clothing, even if their old clothes weren't worn out. Hippies rejected society’s consumerist approach to fashion, and it was then that vintage and secondhand fashion began being practiced on a large scale. Kelly Reddy-Best, fashion professor and museum curator, notes that previously progressive Baby Boomers began shopping at thrift stores and Navy surplus stores, where they discovered bell bottom jeans. Many hippies up-cycled their bell bottoms by adding applique flowers and embroidery out of personal expression and protest against the war. The image to the right, courtesy of the MET Costume Institute, depicts a pair of bell bottoms from the 1960s, upon which the owner added button embellishments along the seams and pockets. By the late 1960s, bell bottoms became one of the biggest sartorial symbols of the hippie movement, alongside floral patterned shirts, tie dye, and prairie dresses. It was at this time that designers like Calvin Klein and Gloria Vanderbilt began to incorporate the trend into their collections, and bell bottom jeans became a closet staple.
The counterculture movement helped to reinforce the second wave feminist movement of the 1960s and 1970s. The second wave feminist movement marked a significant shift in gender equality, and the movement was focused on sexuality, reproductive rights, and workplace discrimination. Whereas the initial feminist movement of the 1920s was predominantly represented by cis-gendered, straight, white women, the second wave movement of the 1960s and 1970s uplifted the voices of women of color and women from developing countries. One of the movement’s major focuses was advancing the Equal Rights Amendment, which would prohibit gender discrimination, and ensure equal rights regardless of sex. The push in favor of the Equal Rights Amendment enabled women to gain more autonomy and break barriers in the workplace. As a result, more women entered the workforce in the 1970s, and by the end of the decade more women were employed than ever before, with over 60% of women holding jobs outside the home. In Susan Kaiser’s Gendering Fashion, Fashioning Gender: Beyond Binaries, she notes that “In the 1970s, second-wave feminist theory made an important distinction between sex (as a biological construct: male versus female) and gender (as a social construct: masculinity versus femininity)... In both conceptualizations of sex and gender, binary ways of thinking permeate the language of male versus female and masculinity versus femininity, overshadowing the possibilities for both/and thinking, gender fluidity, and androgyny.” As women matriculated into male-dominated workplaces, they recognized that fashion could be used as a political tool to challenge the binaries of male versus female. Fashion historian, Marlen Komar, notes that feminists encouraged women to dress in the “3 P’s” of men’s fashion: pants, pinstripes, and pockets, and believed this would allow women to get ahead in the workplace, and to feel powerful in their fashion choices. Since bell bottoms were widely popular in men's fashion during the 1970s, bell bottoms became a pioneering symbol of feminism in the workplace. In Jessica Barker’s Fashion in the Workplace, she explains that most men had a different view on women’s fashion choices and roles in the office. One man in particular, John T. Molloy, felt so moved by binary-pushing outfits that he wrote the book, Women’s Dress For Success, which was published in 1977. In his manifesto on gendered fashion in the workplace, he states that “For women, a much more body-conscious approach—minimizing sexual appeal while still appearing feminine—(is) recommended. A gray or navy tailored blazer and knee-length skirt, white blouse, pantyhose, and plain pumps (are) considered appropriate, especially when paired with ladylike accessories such as scarves or understated jewelry.” In the 1970s, it was easy for men to dismiss women in the workplace when they were dressed femininely, which is why wearing pants, and more specifically, bell bottoms, made men so uncomfortable. Despite this discomfort, women stood firm in their efforts, and bell bottoms became the first ever style of pants worn universally by women, leaving bell bottoms to forever be a symbol of female liberation and equality in the workplace.
Although most people associate disco culture with the late 1970s, Portia K. Maultsby, PhD.
explains that the genre and nightclub culture actually originated years earlier. The first disco nightclubs originated in the 1960s as underground clubs in New York City, and disco was originally popular amongst black, hispanic, and queer groups. By the late 1970s, disco dominated the music scene, fashion trends, and pop culture. In 1977, Studio 54, an infamous nightclub opened up in New York City’s theater district, and drew in A-list celebrities and performers from around the world. Studio 54’s fashion was particularly stunning, with attendees wearing bell bottoms, exaggerated collars, and shiny, sequined fabrics. That same year, the hit film Saturday Night Fever was released, which followed character Tony Manero (John Travolta) at his local Brooklyn disco club. Every weekend, he would show up to the club in his bell bottoms and dagger shirts to dance the night away. Eventually, bell bottoms became synonymous with disco, and many people today recall the iconic Saturday Night Fever poster showing John Travolta doing the hustle in a pair of bell bottoms as their first association with the fashion trend. By the 1980s, as the punk scene was growing, disco fell out of fashion and the bell bottom’s popularity began to fade as well. Skinny jeans and tapered-fit pants became the popular style of pants. Although short lived, the disco era majorly influenced the music industry, and its unofficial uniform of bell bottoms would leave a lasting impact for decades to come.
For many years after the 1970s, bell bottoms were seen as a tacky, dated staple of decades past among Baby Boomers wishing to forget their crazy disco days. Despite this, the style has made a comeback in the last few years. Today, flare jeans, bell bottoms, and disco culture have returned to the mainstream among a progressive Generation Z, who, on a large scale, is embodying the same values as progressive groups in the 1960s and 1970s, as well as reviving disco music and culture.
Much like the hippies, Gen Z is collectively a social activism-focused generation that isn’t afraid to take a stand against injustices. Similar to the anti-war school strikes that hippies participated in during the Vietnam War in 1970, Gen Z college students across the country are striking and are hosting school encampments in protest of the Israeli-Palestinian conflicts. One could argue that Gen Z is the most politically active and progressive generation, with youth today being largely in support of gender equality, LGBTQ+ rights, and access to abortion. Gen Z’s radical sense of political identity also translates into their clothing choices, similar to the Youthquake and Counterculture movements of the 1960s.
These movements redefined self expression through secondhand and expressive fashion, and Generation Z has taken their own spin on it through thrifting and up-cycling unique garments. Thrifting inspires today’s youth to explore their creativity through garments not typically found in retail stores, and it allows individuals the opportunity to create their own one-of-a-kind style. By utilizing social media platforms like Instagram and Tik tok, Gen-Z creators share thrifting, up-cycling, and outfit inspiration with other users. One of the top up-cycling trends, as seen in the image, courtesy of Doris LLamosas, has been turning old skinny jeans into bell bottoms, by splicing the leg and adding an extra panel of fabric.
In addition to Gen Z’s redefinition of counterculture in the 21st century, the generation is also reviving disco from the dead, and one may argue that disco is more relevant than ever before, as its influence has spread far and wide in the music industry. Many of Gen Z’s favorite musicians, including Doja Cat, Dua Lipa, and Bruno Mars have experienced disco phases lately. Discotheque-inspired nightclubs have popped up throughout major urban areas, and Gen Z has embraced disco fashion in their nightclub outfits. Shimmery fabrics, halter tops, and bell bottom jeans are arguably some of the top trends in the last few years. The iconic bell-shaped silhouette has appeared on Spring/Summer 2023 runway shows, and nearly every major retailer is carrying their own version of the trend.
It’s admirable how Gen Z has revived the Counterculture and Youthquake movements of the 1960s by embracing thrifting and upcycling clothing, embracing political activism, and bringing back disco culture in a new way. It’s even more inspiring to see how bell bottoms tie together meaningful movements and cultural impacts from the past and the present. It will be exciting to see how Generation Z will continue reformation in our society, and how bell bottoms will leave an indelible mark on generations to come.
References
Barker, Jessica, “Fashion in the Workplace.” Fashion Photography Archive. (London: Bloomsbury Fashion Central, 2015)
Bindrim, Kira and Squires, Camille. “Why disco music is making a comeback.” (Quartz. 2022). https://qz.com/2138049/disco-music-is-making-a-comeback-thanks-to-its-rich-history
Carter-Lome, Maxine, “Jeans: The Iconic American Style.” The Journal of Antiques & Collectibles, 2023. https://journalofantiques.com/features/jeans-the-iconic-american-style/
Kaiser, Susan B, “Gendering Fashion, Fashioning Gender: Beyond Binaries.” Fashion and Cultural Studies. (London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2021). p. 141-164.
Kirkpatrick, Tim, “This is why the Navy wears bell-bottoms, and it’s not for fashion.” 2020.
Komar, Marlen, “Working Women’s Wardrobe: How the 1970’s Opened Feminist Fashion.” (Washington D.C.: Public Broadcasting Service, 2021). https://www.pbs.org/independentlens/blog
Reddy-Best, Kelly, Clothing and Fashion: American Fashion from Head to Toe: The Postwar period into the 21st Century. Santa Barbara: ABC-CLIO, 2016. p. 45-46.
Melero, Angela, “We’re Calling It: Bell Bottoms Will Be Everywhere in 2023.” (The Zoe Report, 2022). https://www.thezoereport.com/fashion/bell-bottoms-spring-summer-2023-trend-nyfw
Rampton, Martha, “The Four Waves of Feminism.” Portland: Pacific University, 2015. https://www.pacificu.edu/magazine/four-waves-feminism
Reddy, Karina, “1990-1999 | Fashion History Timeline.” (New York City: Fashion Institute of Technology, 2020). https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1990-1999/
“Jeans.” New York City: The Metropolitan Museum of Art: The Costume Institute.
“A Glimpse into the Glamorous World of Studio 54.” (Washington D.C.: Public Broadcasting Service, 2023). https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/americanexperience/features/war-disco-glimpse-glamorous-world-studio-54/
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